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SmartLace Training Class

SmartLace Training Class

Video Highlights:
0:09 - Its called SmartLace
0:20 - It's going like firecrackers
0:36 - The good is
0:59 - The good thing also is
1:14 - What are the bads
1:39 - Take your little dryer towel
1:59 - The second thing is
2:18 - I got my little back pinking sheers
2:47 - Patti takes the wig off the manikin
3:00 - You're looking at the wig upside down
5:01 - On the human hair you don't get the black dots
9:35 - Patti pats her painter's brush on the palm of her hand
12:44 - So now you've got the products
14:52 - Patti pats the wig with a brush
18:57 - We kinda twisted it back
21:45 - One two three four five six
24:36 - Can you see the black dots
27:22 - Can you see how it's starting to look different now
29:36 - We can get better and better and better

Video Transcript

Hi guys. This is Patti again. Today we're going to do a tutorial, so this'll probably be a little bit longer. It's called, "SmartLace: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly."

I'll tell you that SmartLace popped on the scene a couple years ago and it's going like firecrackers. But now, all of a sudden people are thinking, "Hmm, I don't like this. I don't like that. What do I do here? What do I do there?" Well today I'm here to try to help you with that.

The first thing I want to tell you is what the good is. The good is, of course, we no longer have to wear our hair in front of our face. We can actually go with no bang. We can actually pull it back on the sides. And with my custom hairlining and then the SmartLace, holy moly, you can pull it straight back into a ponytail, if that's what you want. And a good thing also, is it's cooler, it's easy. And you never have to be afraid that your best friend is going to say, "Oh! I can see you've got a wig on!" Your best friend usually does that.

So what are the bads? The bad is that some of you say that the SmartLace itches. Or, when it gets a little older, it gets a little wavy. Here's how you take care of that. If the SmartLace is itching your head, I want you to get a dryer towel like Downy, or whatever, that you throw in your dryer to make your clothes soft. You take the little dryer towel, you take your wig, and you rub the inside, inside out. You rub the inside of just the SmartLace with the drying towel, and it'll just soften it up immediately. You might have to do that after every wash, but it should work for you.

The second thing is that sometimes you think the lace is too long. [00:02:07] A lot of times, I'll cut the lace. Now, manufacturers say that when you cut the lace, you're supposed to use pinking shears. Well, I got my little baby pinking shears. I bought them and they were five inches. I thought they'd really work. But the problem is, my SmartLace went doo-too doo-too doo-too; I had the little points. And that didn't work. That looked as bad as just the regular lace.

So if you want to cut it, here's what I do. You know if I do it, I'll always tell you and it's up to you if you want to do it or not. I want you to take the wig, and let's see if we can get a close-up on this. First thing you do is put on your glasses. Then, you take the wig and you're looking at the lace upside-down. Now, take your little tiny scissors. Even if you have little tiny manicuring scissors, the smaller, the better. And if you look, you can see, kind of like, a little row, And you're just going to try to get into the middle and not have it stick out, and cut just a little bit at a time. Are you watching that, sweetie? You make it round. I have found, that works for you. In fact, it really works well for me. I did the pinking shears like we were told to do. But I didn't think that it worked as good. See, I can hold it up. You can see that, I hope, in the light. And then you just take off a little bit at a time. That's how to make the lace smaller.

It's interesting. When I did theater, the lace actually came down all the way to your eyebrow. [00:04:05] Way, way down here. And then what you do is, you put your fingers on the actor's forehead and you press and you count to like, 15 or 20, and crimp. Just like we do with our SmartLace now, except it went all the way down to here. And then, what you had, I remember, was that big Max Factor pancake stick. So then, you put the plaster on and smooth it and blend it. So then, when you went into a close-up or even print or whatever, I swear to you, you could not tell.

Now, SmartLace on human hair, it's wonderful. It might scare you a little bit to cut SmartLace on human hair because it costs so much money. But you know what? The lace is the lace. So, you go ahead. If you need to cut it off, just do a little bit at a time. On the human hair, you don't get the black dots that most of you are concerned with. Why? Because I usually, if you ask me to, and all of mine that I sell here in the salon and on my own, I bleach. And I'm not going to tell you how, or the secret of it. But I take the little black dots out.

Look at my Sophia. I have on Sophia today. I'm going to really put it back for you and let you see all my wrinkles and everything, because I want you to see this. And then, I cut the lace a little bit. Then I did that process where I take all those little black dots out of the human hair cap. And then, you just have something that looks so very real. And then I take my fingers and wet them, and go against the grain. Can you see how I'm doing that, love? And usually, I think the shaded ones of the real dark wigs are the hardest, because that little black dot really, really shows. And especially in the shading. The little black dot shows here and then you've got the blonde.

So it really, kind of, makes people uncomfortable, almost to a T. When I have her in my chair, she's got this beautiful wig on, Courtney, in shaded praline. And then we fix the bangs, cut the hair line, then it fits her perfectly. And she looks at it and she goes, "Oh!" And then pretty soon, 15 seconds later, she's going, "Oh." And she's looking in the mirror. "Can you get rid of those?" So I'm going to show you how to do that today, in your home, in your own bathroom, with your own makeup kit.

Now, did you get a close-up of this so you could see? [00:06:53] What I have on today is Sophia, my Remy hand-tied wig. I've cut it. I've cut off probably a couple of inches. I made it three inches in the back and layered it. And then, a little bit shorter here. Now remember, if you order Sophia and you want her cut, you be sure and send a picture of yourself or send a picture of how you want it to look. Because remember, I have no neck. So when I cut mine, I probably have to cut it a little bit shorter than what you'd really want. So remember that. Now back on Sophia, shaded praline. Now back onto this synthetic. The heat defiant, the heat friendly; all of those can be dotted with some products that I'm going to show you, to cover up the black dots.

Now, I must tell you I'm working on something and I've got it in my kitchen. You know I don't cook. What I do in my kitchen is I run these scientific experiments. So anyway, I'm working on it where you don't have to use a stippling brush or anything. It will just do it here in the shop and you'll be done for me. But anyway, I've taken today . . . and this is our Adriana. And I wanted to show you, just give me a minute, guys, so I can get this right where you want it. I want you to see what this SmartLace looks like. Adriana, and this is . . . What color is this? Twenty-two, yeah. This is 22F16. I've pulled her down a little bit so that you can see the SmartLace here. I have not cut this lace. I wanted you to see exactly how it comes out of the box, love.

Then we have our Zara and she's in shaded sun.

And then we have our Julia over here, and she's a color four.

And if you can zoom in on these . . . No, don't zoom in yet. I'm going to tell you what we're going to do, then I'll have you zoom in when I do it. [00:09:12]

One of the ways to take care of the black dots and to blend them and make them not so noticeable, is with a brush. Now, this is a painter's brush. And the reason I got this, I have so many brushes, as you imagine, in my makeup, but this is more stiff. If you were doing this on your face, it might even hurt. You can have it smaller than this. You can have it probably not bigger than this. Smaller, if you want to be real careful. I've done this a lot so I know what I'm doing. And then, I do it long because I feel like I've got more control. Plus I wanted you to be able to see it and not have my hand in the way. If it's easier for you to have a little brush when you're in the bathroom doing this, please go ahead and do it.

Now, the products. The first one is called Toppik. I don't know if you've heard about this before. It's usually used on bald heads. You've seen it on the TV. And they'll spray the baldness and then they touch it with a little utensil, and it's supposed to look like hair. And then you comb your own hair over it and people can't tell. But what I like about it is it has a little bit of fiber in it. And it comes in . . . this is light brown. You get it at beauty supply houses. I think Sally's has it. And you can get it in blonde, red, light brown, dark brown, black, medium brown. All of those. So I use the Toppiks. You can get it in a medium-sized can. Or, what I suggest to you, is get the little tiny can, like this. And it has a sprinkler on the top. So you take the lid off, and see, it's got a sprinkler. Now I've already done this for you. But what I do, I actually use a wig box lid. But any kind of lid would work. And I put out all of my colors. Can you see this? Here's my light brown. Here's my medium brown. Here's my darker brown. So then I can blend and mix and play with it. This is like my artist palette for our lace.

The next product that I use, that really, really works well is eyebrow powder. [00:11:41] Please do not go to the matte finishes of eye shadow. Because truthfully, they still have a little bit of that light reflecting pigment in there. And I don't want you to, being in a club, lean over to say hi to somebody, and all of a sudden your hair looks like one of those disco balls, because the metallic are catching the light. Don't go there. Eyebrow shadow.

Then the next thing, and you're not going to believe it, is mascara. You can get waterproof mascara and it works even better, But it's sometimes harder to take out. I didn't use waterproof. I used Great Lash. This is by Maybelline. You can get it in the drug store. But Great Lash. And this is called Lengthening, so it's got lengthening and you've got fiber. And that also has little bitty particles in there so that you don't get this even look. I want to get a stippling look.

So now you've got the products. And you can gather them all together in your bathroom, just like I did. And you've got the eyebrow powder, the mascara, and then your Toppik here. And what you're going to do is, you're going to take your wig, and you're going to hold it in your hand. If you have a Styrofoam head or something like that, that's even easier. If you have a Styrofoam head and you don't know where to put it, get a plunger, get a broom. And the hole in the Styrofoam fits perfectly on there. And if you put the suction cup on the floor, now you've got your knees around the plunger. I know, but what the heck? You do what you got to do, baby. So you put the plunger through here, hold it with your knees, put my head here. Now I'm free with my hands to stipple with the powder.

And then what you're going to do is . . . I put the napkin underneath the wig. I'll just do this one again for you. But before I begin to work it, I want to show you these three wigs. If you can get a close-up as close as you can, we'll start with the blonde one here. [00:14:02] This is 22F16. I'm pulling it all the way back. I have not done a thing to this, not a thing. But some of you think it really does blend better. And if you press with your fingers here and print. But some of you still think maybe it looks a little thin. Maybe you still don't like that look. You think it shows. So you take your good little brush. Now, we're going to use the blonde. Remember my palette? And I'm going to stick it in like this. Just dip it, dip it, dip it, dip it, dip it. And as in makeup, flick it. Dip, dip, dip, dip, dip, flick. Now get close in, the stiff brush, and you're going to go stippling like that. And then a little circle like that. And what that's going to do, it's going to fill in part of that.

And see, I don't do it perfectly. See how I'm kind of messing it? If you want some back here in the part, go ahead and do it. Now, what this is going to do, it's going to fill that in so that it looks like you have more hair. And if your skin is a little darker, then this lace isn't going to show. A lot of girls have great tans and or even darker skin, but wear the blonde. So this is great. Fill it in with the blonde. Now you got a close-up of that, can you see? Can you see this side? Bring out your little bitty hairs. As opposed to this side. Got it? This is where there is none, and this is where we blended it. The last thing you do whenever you wear one of our wigs and it's been customized with the hairline, lick your fingers and I want you to go against the grain. Go here and circle, circle, and go towards the center. Circle, circle, the center. Circle, circle, circle, the center. Then pat it down.

A lot of you have called me. You've gotten a wig back and you say, "Well I don't see any customization at all. Where are those little hairs?" [00:16:21] When you put your wig on, you put it on like this and then push it back. And most of the time, those little bitty hairs get stuck underneath. So you take your little pick and you make sure that you get those out, like that. Then you can circle-circle, circle-circle, circle-circle. Nobody would dream I have a wig on. That's for the blonde. Now let's put her over to the side, as beautiful as she is.

Now these two are a little harder, pumpkin. But you know, you've got to work at it for the great color. This is a shaded sun and this is a four. Let's do the shaded sun first. Because, this time, I want to show you with some eyebrow powder. And if you look closely, I'll pull it up so you can see. You can see that you can't see those dark ones. Let's see. Did I leave some space to show you? Nope. I did the whole thing. All right. Let's go down here, right on the forehead so it'll stay there. Now, if you look in, what I have done is I've tapped, tapped, tapped into the brow powder; a brown and a darker brown. And now let's stipple, stipple, stipple, stipple, stipple. Stipple, stipple, stipple, like that. And the more that you do . . . and make it messy like everything in my life. I'm always telling you, "Make it messy, make it messy."

Now, go in close. And you can see how you don't see that dramatic shift in shade and then see the dark spots. It's not nearly as noticeable, if at all. Then, you know the drill. And I go like this with my little hairs. My little baby hairs. Even over here. [00:18:45] And now, we even got it pulled down lower so you can see. It looks good, huh? And that's pulling it straight back. In fact, we kind of twisted it back so you can really see. And you can do this if you want to, even wearing a wig. And I'll tell you what happens. If you pull it back, if you put a headband, if you put a flower, if you put a barrette, whatever you put in your hair, on your hair or whatever, people would never dream that it's a wig. They expect a wig to be like the wigs, I guess, they saw when they were little kids or something. You know, a perfect little helmet hat, not moving like this and not messy at all.

So, this is your shaded sun and we've cut a little bit of the lace off. And then we did it with our long brush, and I got eyebrow makeup, there and there. Now that looks good. Okay. Now if you can zoom in, I'm going to pull this down, before we go to the black. And I'm going to show you . . . "My lace doesn't fit me anymore. The lace is stretched out. I don't know what to do about the lace." If the lace has stretched out, your best, biggest, best friend is your It Stays glue. I swear to you, it's changed my life and I'll preach it until the day I die. It stays on. Watch me.

This morning I put the It Stays on, and then I rubbed it like Ban roll-on all the way across my face, here. And then what I did is, I pulled my lace up to where it got into the glue, and I think it's my four fingers. Then I hold it. One, two, three, four, five. The heat from my hands and the heat from my fingers and my head will meld that lace. And then I go print, then circle up, circle up. Now look. That's the It Stays. All of a sudden, the lace is all smoothed out because it's onto the It Stays. It does two things: it takes care of the lace and it doesn't bubble on you. Sometimes it'll get a little stretch there if you treat it a little roughly. If it does stretch, much like this that I'm showing you here. See how it's bubbled a little bit? You take that It Stays glue, put that on there and press, print and press. And you're home free. Then when you want to take it off. Here's what you do. Watch. [00:21:34] It does not pull my human hair wig. It does not pull my own hair out. Now if I want to put it back, I just go like this again. One, two, three, four, five, six. Press and print. There it is. Done.

Now, I've shown you what to do. There's one other thing I want to tell you. A lot of you have called and said, "Now my lace is as stiff as a board because I've got the glue on it." Okay, perfect. When I wash my head at night or my face at night, I take my wet wash-rag in cold water, whatever, and I rub all my hair and it takes the glue out immediately. The glue needs no solvent. It just needs water. And then I do the same thing to my wig. You don't have to do this every night. But after a couple of wearings, say like three or four wearings. If this lace gets stiff from the glue, you go to the bathroom, you hold it inside out like this. See how I'm doing that? And then you take your cold water and you take the glue off like that.

Let's say you've got makeup all over it, and mixed with the glue. First you do cold water with your wash-rag and take off the It Stays. Now you've got makeup on it. A lot of girls have said, "Yeah, I get makeup on it. Blah, blah, blah." All right. You take your cold water. You put a little bit of shampoo or a little bit of your cleansing soap if you're using some, very, very little. And then you go in a soft, circular motion. Can you see that? And that little bit of soap or shampoo or cleansing soap for your face is gentle. I don't want you to use any Dial soap on this. Something gentle, in soft circulars. it will clean off your makeup. Then you take the other end of the cloth and you wet it with your cold water again and go like that. And it'll just rinse right out, the shampoo.

Okay, so this is wet. So, you lay it down on your countertop until morning. Or, you put it on a head until the next day. And when it dries, you're all brand new and ready to begin again. [00:23:52]

Now, for the hardest one. I need my water. I don't have my water. Well, we'll go on without it. Carry on, troops! Because, I want you to get this before I lose you.

All right, black. I know it's the hardest because you really do see black dots on your face. If you're a French girl . . . that fair, beautiful black French where your skin's real fair. If your skin is a little darker, it helps. But you're still going to see the dots. Now let's go in on this one because I want to show you this side. I didn't really do this side. Can you see the black dots here, how they're coming out? And this is the SmartLace on that side.

Now, take the camera and we're going to gently walk over to the next side, and you're going to see where I have done the black. And then, you know the drill, pull it like that. Circle, circle. And bring out the little bitty hairs that we've cut. Now look. Doesn't that look magnificent? How I did that, guys, is first, I used my stipple brush. Very stiff. I went with my dark, dark brown eyebrow powder, and I stippled. And I can even go back in here, stippling.

Stippling means to hit with pressure so that the product will come off the brush and it will embed it in whatever you're doing. Now we're doing it to the SmartLace. Now, after I did that with a little bit of the brown . . . I don't want you to be very, very symmetrical with it. I don't want you to brush it like this, and get that, and go over there, because then it will looks like you've painted something on. Straight up and down, stipple, stipple, stipple. Now we've done the dark brown.

Now, take the mascara for the blacks. I guess you could do it with the dark brown. But for some reason, the black, it just shines. Get some mascara on your brush. On this mascara, we're also going to have those little fibers. [00:26:43] Now I want you to tap it and get off the excess, just as if you were a makeup artist. And now, we're going to go into this side that I haven't done, and we're going to stipple. And remember, it's getting onto the head right now. But you just wash it right off. You wipe it right off and it comes right off. Remember, we always put that paper towel or napkin underneath it. But in stippling, can you see how it's starting to look different now? I did a little bit more here. Take a little bit, tap it on your cloth. Now pull it down.

Now, see how much it's covered? Now wet your fingers and bring out those little ones. If you're doing the mascara, give it a few seconds to dry so it won't come off on your fingers. You can try waterproof mascara. I haven't done that because I want to be able to wash this out with just soap and water. And sometimes with waterproof mascara, you have to use some kind of oil or solvent to get it off your eyes, and I don't want you to have to do that to the lace. We want to be gentle to the lace, pumpkin. But we also want to love our SmartLace.

Now all of a sudden, I've got mine where you can't see the dots. Little old Sadie's here, got hers where you can't see the dots. And you know what? Now we can go out with confidence. And now when you're standing in the parking lot of whatever, and you're talking to someone, and it happens to be all the time, and I'll see them looking. Probably because they know I'm the wig lady. And you'll see people looking. You don't have to think in your heart, you don't have to panic and say, "Oh God, they see it. They see the dark. They know. They know." That sounds stupid to some of you out there listening, but for we who go through it every day, it's not stupid. My biggest goal in life is to give you confidence and strength and courage. This is ca-ca, having no hair. But we can get better and better and better.

Try this at home. Do it in your bathroom first, babe. And don't do it when you're going to have a big date. Do it at home and then walk it around and see how it works.

Have a great day. Have a great weekend. Bye.

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